Ajrakhpur

When I went to visit Judy at Kala Raksha, I told her about my study into block printing and she gave me some contact details for some of the block printers in Ajrakhpur and Dhamadka. I set out to Ajrakhpur on the bus 10 km outside Bhuj. As usual I had to ask people to tell me when I arrived at the village, because there was only a tiny sign on the side of the road when we arrived and no early ones saying how far it was.
I had arranged to meet Juned Abdul Raheman one of the graduates of KRV, but on arriving I met Sufiyan who’s father is Dr. Ismail Mohammed Khatri, a well known ajrakh artisan and business man. He received and honary doctorate from Leicester de Montfort and has collaborated with Eiluned Edwards on her ajrakh block printing research.
Ajrakh quilts hanging on the wall outside Ismail's house. Photo: Ruth Clifford

Ajrakh quilts hanging on the wall outside Ismail’s house. Photo: Ruth Clifford

I’m not sure I had arrived at the best time, as just after I turned up so did Ismail’s two brothers – Abdul Razzak and Abdul Jabbar. I recognised all of them immediately from my visit two years ago when on tour with Carole Douglas, and to my surprise they recognised me to. They didn’t seem to mind me being there though and I was offered tea while they seemed to have a business meeting of some sorts. They looked so important and wise all sat there in their long beards, turbans and all white long kurtas, I felt quite odd out! I was later told that they are investing in some new land to share between all of their block printing businesses so wondered if that was what they were discussing.
After they had finished Ismail seemed to have plenty of time to answer my questions. He informed me that the market for ajrakh is currently very strong, mainly for the international and urban Indian market. They always use natural dyes now because these are more popular in the high end international market. This has meant the local market which was once very strong and their main market, has completely disappeared due to the high prices and the availability of cheaper synthetic cloths. Traditional Ajrakh is selling well, but new designs are also coming in with the help of companies like Fab India and Maiwa in Canada.
The main worry for the printers currently is the ever decreasing water levels. Water is vital for the printing process. Twenty years ago they relied on a nearby river, but it has since dried up. A well was dug but this has gotten deeper and deeper as the water levels go down. This is partly due to dams being built in Pakistan on the river Indus to benefit the Punjab but doing the opposite for Sindh, north of Kachchh, meaning very little is reaching Sindh and Kachchh. They are trying to find money to work on new irrigation systems but there are all sorts of complex political problems and government red tape that are delaying any action.
Sufiyan’s brother and Ismail’s second son Junaid is also a KRV graduate. As I am looking at how ajrakh is being interpreted in a contemporary way and it was interesting to see how they have achieved this. Junaid has been experimenting with using traditional blocks but in new block combinations and colour combinations.


Sufiyan and Junaid showed me what was being printed and talked me through their work. I took photos and videos. I was then invited to stay for lunch at Ismail’s which I was delighted to find was very tasty spicy fish. It felt like a luxury after having the same palak paneer, aloo and chana for the last two weeks. I then bought a sample process off Ismail which I had been hoping to take home and exhibit in an exhibition that will be held in Macclesfield in July. – Fold. It will feature quilts from different ages and countries. There will be a section on Ajrakh because the cloth has been used for centuries for traditional Ralli quilts in Gujarat, Sindh and Rajasthan.

4 Comments

  1. Hi Ruth. I'm amazed coming across your blog. it seems I'm reading my own thoughts. I too am a textile designer who just finished her MA from Chelsea College of Art and Design in London. I too focused on block printing from India during my Masters. It wasn't really welcomed by the faculty but there was some curious bug in me that just had to be quelled. And so I made the journey to India, set up a stint with Fabindia who kindly guided me to Rajasthan to meet a block printing community there. And since then, the world has never been the same. Anyways, long story short! I just want to say how amazed I am at your courage for going through this all by yourself. Especially Gujurat! I am planning a trip to India right now, starting in Rajasthan and ending in Bhuj. I'm originally from delhi so have no idea about Bhuj and am scared to get lost. I don't want to bombard you with questions but if you have the time, email me and check out my blog. I would love to talk in detail about your travel and whether you would be willing to recommend whom I should visit in Gujurat when I am there. I would really appreciate it. My blog is http://blockprintwithflowers.blogspot.com/ and my email address is Ruchikakumarr@yahoo.com. looking forward to hearing from you! -Ruchika Kumar

  2. Hi Ruchika, thanks for your comment. Wow its great to find someone else as interested as me in Indian block printing! If you've read my newest post, you'll know that I'm off to India again in a few weeks. Maybe our paths will cross. I'll send you and e-mail anyway.
    Ruth

  3. Dear Ruth,
    What a lovely morning it is since I came across your Travels in Textiles. A gem indeed. I am a new grandmother (my daughter has had a lovely daughter). I am an architect, and writer of non-fiction (travel etc.) and fiction. More recently my daughter and I ventured giddily into the area of block printing and natural dyes. I live in Mumbai, India and she in London.

    I will have to set out, travelling into Kutch and Rajastahan sometime. I have travelled before when i was writing books. But travel for textiles is all so new to me. Although Dyeing is something I have always wanted to do since my college days in Tokyo.

    I’d love to hear from you, and encouraging words of course.

    Sarayu Ahuja

    ( sarayu srivatsa is my pen name for books fYI)

    sarayu.ahuja@gmail.com

  4. Dear Sarayu,
    Lovely to hear from you. I’m pleased you enjoyed reading my blog. You should definitely travel to Kutch if its dyeing and block printing you’re interested in as the region is full of the most amazing dyed and printed textiles, as well as an array of other textiles and crafts. Let me know if you’d like any advice on where to visit etc. Did you see my post on the block printers in Mumbai? That could be a starting point for you – http://travelsintextiles.com/pracheen-block-printers-mumbai/.

    Your work sounds really interesting. I’d love to find out more about your writing.

    All the best,
    Ruth

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