I told Errol at NID that I planned to visit Maneklal Gajjar the famous master wood block carver who has for decades produced carved blocks for many block printers all round Gujarat, Rajasthan and other Indian states. He gave me a detailed description of how to get to Pethapur where Maneklal lives and known for its block carvers. It is about 30k outside Ahmedabad near Ghandinagar.
So I set off the next day determined to meet this man who is so widely praised.
I arose early in hope of avoiding busy traffic, jumped in a rickshaw, which took me to the wrong bus stand, which I realised after about half an hour and asking about 10 people. I then got another rickshaw to the right bus station, which took ages as we were travelling at peak shopping time through the market. I finally arrived and waited about half an hour, standing under pigeon riden roofs, which luckily didn’t poo on me, for the Ghandinagar bus. This took about 45 minutes. On arriving i was advised to pay 10 rs for a shared rickshaw, but I couldn’t find any shared ones so asked an individual one to take me to Pethapur. He tried to charge me 60 rupees which I argued but he didn’t lower it. Then came along a polite young English speaking lad who offered to help, and said why don’t I get a bus. So he took me to the local bus station and asked the man calling out bus information announcements which one I should get. No one else spoke English, but the nice man found a girl who was getting the same bus so said to stick with her. I definitely wouldn’t cope in India on my own without the kind help of the locals. I was very grateful and we exchanged e-mails, he hoped to visit England as he had relatives there.
The local bus didn’t take long to get to Pethapur, and on arriving at the central bus stand, I asked the local pan wallah, as advised by Errol, where Maneklal lives. There was some discussion between themselves in Gujarati and then: ‘He’s gone to Ahmedabad to see his daughter’. I couldn’t believe my bad luck. It had taken me about three hours to get there, and he was back where I’d just come from! So I asked where his house was anyway, and they pointed down the road. I found it and saw a big sign above ‘Maneklal Gajjar, Award winning block carver’. I sighed and thought well, at least I tried. Just as I was about to head back though, two men opposite gestured at me to go up. I hesitated, walked inside and saw stairs so checking again with them started to climb, and there was an old man just sat there. I expected there to be a door I could knock on, and felt rude just walking in. I called his name, and he said to come up. I introduced myself and apologised for not calling before I arrived. – I didn’t have contact for him except an address.
I knew it was Maneklal when I saw him as his retina was damaged and he couldn’t see very well – I’d been informed of his poor eyesight. I’d seen pictures of him from a while ago and he’d aged a lot since then. He started telling me how much he wished he could continue his carving, that he would carry on for ten more years if he could get his retina fixed. He was 81.
After calling for some help, he took me up to his workshop and took out all his blocks and talked through the process. He was very proud of his work, and mentioned a few times that his work is exhibited all over the world. At the Calico museum, the V&A in London, museums in America, Japan, Thailand and more. I took a lot of photos and said I’d send them him, I bought a few blocks and said I would update him on my work, wrote in his visitor’s book which was full and after I saw how pleased with it he was, I didn’t feel as guilty for turning up out the blue, he obviously loves having visitors to show his work to.
His helper, Chetan was also a block carver, one of the few left in the village. There used to be about 25 workshops, now there are only 4 or 5. Maneklal said he thinks the art will be gone in the next 50 years. New technology is taking over, and people can no longer afford the cloth that has taken so much time and skill to produce. Young men are less likely to learn block carving now because of this. Maneklal didn’t have any sons to pass it onto, although he taught a few young men in the village.
I was invited to Chetan’s house and met his wife, 1 year old daughter and his nephew. His wife made me tea, and he showed me his and his father’s blocks. He produces a few for Ajrakhpur and Dhamadka where I would be visiting later in the trip, and for other designers.
He then kindly escorted me to the bus stop and I took the same route back to Ahmedabad, again with the help of a few friendly locals.